For a long time I assumed that Gothic Quarter and Born is what Barcelona is all about: the labyrinths of narrow streets, mingling tourists, cosy cafés at squares, and of course – the after 11pm “cerveza men”.
But since a handsome little folding bike came into my life, my view of Barcelona has been radically changed and extended. I have actually developed a great attraction to L’Eixample – the extension of historical Barcelona’s center, where I can escape the tourist crowds and watch locals walk their dogs.
Way uptown
So I put on my heels and pink dress, and jump on the bike to the visit the upper part of the town where life feels more tranquil and posh.
Since it is so easy to get lost in L’Eixample’s enormous rectangular blocks of wide boulevards and open street corners, I try to stick to two main streets. I am going from the right side Eixample Dret to the left side Eixample Esquerre via the Carrer de la Diputació. Then later I will make my way back via Carrer Consell de Cent. Both of these streets have spacious cycling routes that make you feel safe from rushing taxi drivers and their glances.
I cross Passeig de Gràcia, which I call Champs Elysées of Barcelona, as it also is home of exclusive brand names and smart restaurants. It is part of a 5km long shopping line that runs from Placa Catalunya up to the Diagonal, where the spending fever never stops. After riding for about 15 minutes I reach my west-side goal - the Sant Antoni market, where I can pick out bargain antique jewelry, and look for books and 50’s movie posters.
On a mission
On my way back I meet up with a friend for a drink near Urgell station in the area called GayEixample, which we both find perfect to “window shop” for super-toned tanned bodies. The regulars call this neighborhood “eye-sham-play”…
In say cheerful “Hasta la vista baby!” to my friend, to continue my bicycle journey back to Eixample Dret, admiring the Modernist architecture, the typically Catalan tiled walls, and balconies with glass doors and corniches. “How lovely it would be to reside here for a while!” I think to myself. The average price for two-bedroom flat is only EUR700.000… I promise to myself stop buying expensive coffee and start saving up for an apartment from today.
Below the apartments, I see bakeries, a delicatessen, a chemist’s , all rubbing shoulders with designer’s boutiques and furniture. But I don’t stop until I reach the 24 hour flower market on Carrer València at Mercat de la Concepció. In this jungle of sweet odor and green I find my ultimate goal of the day – a new plant for my balcony. Then jump back on the bicycle, put my feet up from the pedals, and let wind to take over my hair while I roll down freely the Passeig de Sant Joan to Arc de Triomf. What a Triumph!
Experience the culture charm of L’Eixample:
>National Symphony of Catalonia
Address: C/ Lepant 150
> Art house movie theaters
Cine Urgell,
Address: C/ Comte d’Urgell 29
Closest metro: Sant Antoni
Cine Rex
Address: Gran Vía Corts Catalanes 463
Closest Metro: Rocafort
>Music bar
Luz de Gas
Address: C/Muntaner 246
Closest metro: Diagonal
Stay In The Loop!
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